May 16, 2012

Looking back

tawah1b

This post is by Alie Tawah ’11, a Health: Science, Society & Policy and Biology double-major.  Alie was a a Hiatt WOW Fellow who interned in Cameroon in July 2009.

It has been two years since I began my story of my experience in Cameroon. I gave an introduction then disappeared from this site and went on to live my life. Now things have changed. I finished my summer in Cameroon, went back to Brandeis for my junior year, studied abroad in Geneva, Switzerland the fall of 2010 and graduated in May 2011.

Reading over my previous entry, I realize that I did not do it justice.  My descriptions were very general and did not give a true personal look at what was going on at the time.  I did not describe the extreme heat that I felt as I landed in Douala, the country’s largest city located in the littoral province, because of the lack of air conditioning in around 90 degree Fahrenheit weather. I did not describe the joy I felt to be picked up from the airport by a cousin whom I was used to seeing at my house in the United States but looked a little different in her territory. I remember seeing the lush untouched forest green trees that covered the mountain tops as we drove a hour from the airport in Douala to Beau, a city in the south-west province, where I would be staying for the next few days until my father came to take me to Yaoundé, the capital of the nation located in the central province, where I would begin my two month internship.

Due to my lack of description and follow-up you never had the chance to get a glimpse of the mix innocence and purity of the people of the nation that lived in the cities I visited, or the mix of luxury and poverty that was evident as you drove through a neighborhood: next to very nice modern-looking mansions stood shacks made of plywood and tin coverings where families lived.  I did not describe the characters I met along the way that believed so much in their countrymen and the need for change that they spent their whole lives working with and around the corrupt system of the government to do what they could to improve the lives of the country’s citizens. I did not describe the mothers that worked tirelessly at their farms and in the market selling whatever produce they harvested to try a feed their young children. I did not describe the students I met at the university who were a few years older than me and very eager to learn but found themselves unable to do so with the limited resources at their university. Within this group I met one who dreamed of becoming a research scientist but knew that his school did not have the materials necessary to conduct experiments and there were very few centers in the country that did.

Looking back I realize that I was not being fair to the people I met along the way of the people who read my entry as I gave general overviews of everything as if I was a reference textbook. I hope that all of you take this as my apology and realize that I have learned this lesson.  The next time I choose to write such a blog I’ll be sure to paint the picture so you can have a glimpse of my true experience and hopefully give me a glimpse of yours.

Read Alie’s previous posts: A Foreign Homeland and Healthcare in Cameroon.

Building Sustainable East African Coffee Businesses

zachcohen1b

Zach Cohen ’09 was an International and Global Studies major at Brandeis.  He works for the international non-profit TechnoServe in East Africa.

Zach at an annual cooperative general assembly in Tanzania.

Before jumping into the details of my East African adventure, I would like to give you a background of the company, TechnoServe (TNS), I worked for while there. TNS is a non-profit organization that works in many developing countries across the globe with the aim of finding business solutions to poverty. Entrepreneurism and sustainability are central to finding these solutions. The specific project that I worked on was the Coffee Initiative, which seeks to help smallholder farmer cooperatives enhance the quality of their coffee through improved processing methods, higher production, and market linkages.

Throughout my almost two years working for TNS, I performed various activities. My first task was to collect and analyze costs of production data from each of the countries in which the Coffee Initiative has a presence – Rwanda, Kenya, Tanzania, and Ethiopia. This information was valuable for a number of reasons. By understanding the industry benchmark in each country, TNS would be able to quantify the impact of its work with the cooperatives and determine which specific areas of operation are strong and which are weak. Much of my time spent on this task consisted of going out to the field and interviewing farmer cooperatives in each country.  As you may imagine, this type of work, at times, forced me out of my comfort zone and ultimately provided me with experiences that will forever have a positive impact on me. One thing that I promised the many people that I encountered along my journey was that I would share the experiences with people back home.

Zach in a meeting with a coffee farmer cooperative in Kenya.

Given that I was most recently in Ethiopia, I will go ahead and share some of my observations from there.  Let me start by debunking the common misconception that Ethiopia is an arid desert. In fact, Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee and has some of the highest quality coffee on the planet. It is a country with a very rich culture in food, coffee, and religion.

Ethiopian food is certainly unique, and I encourage anyone who hasn’t tried it to give it a shot. The first lesson in Ethiopian food culture is that you must always wash your hands before eating. Of course, this seems a common theme with any dining experience in any part of the world, but Ethiopians are particularly strict about it. Why? Because Ethiopian food is eaten exclusively with your hands. No matter what you order, your food will come served on a platter with what would appear to any outsider as a rather large, thin sponge resembling a pizza pie with no cheese or sauce. This is a bitter, very absorbent bread called injera that serves as your spoon, fork, and knife. On it goes any number of culinary delights ranging from tibs, pieces of meat cooked with spices, onions, and peppers, to beyaynetu, an array of vegetable dishes served on fasting days.

A coffee tree

As I mentioned before, Ethiopia is among the most highly regarded coffee origins in the world. Obviously, the inherent climate, altitude, and soil conditions are the primary reasons for this. But, ironically, the lack of development of the coffee sector in Ethiopia contributes to its superiority in quality. Due to a lack of large scale processing infrastructure, Ethiopian coffee production is dominated by smallholder farmers. When you have hundreds of smallholder coffee farmers pooling together their coffee at one cooperative, the blend of flavors creates unique coffee profiles that appeal to the most discerning of buyers. By linking these cooperatives to buyers in the US, Europe, and Japan, TNS helps these smallholders fetch significantly higher sales prices than they would have received otherwise. What we are seeing is that the quality of this coffee is high enough to motivate buyers to form sustainable business relationships with these cooperatives so that TNS can remove itself as the facilitator.

While what I shared was brief and incomplete, I hope that I have exposed you to something that is new and different, and that you carry this over to explore some more on your own.

Lakhpat – One of my first work projects

img_1772_thumb

Brandeis alum Jamie van Wagtendonk ’09 reports from India, where he is working in Bhuj, Gujarat through the American Jewish World Service. You can view the original posting here.

One of the many beautiful ruins in Lakhpat

Imagine the rumblings of an earthquake, spreading from the sea to your west, from the desert to the east to your house, cracking the spine of your town, shredding houses. In rebuilding, you discover that the river you lived on, the river that brought ships to your town and brought livelihood to your family and to all of your neighbors was actually gone – shifted 50 miles west. Everyone who can picks up and moves out. Slowly, over years, you literally watch as the water near your home becomes stagnant and dries up. From a flowing river that connected directly to the ocean to a salt-water pond to desert, all in a few years.

I was used as a measuring stick to take dimensions of this annex to the Parliament House, one of our restoration projects. The ceiling, in case you are curious, is two Jamie arms minus one Jamie hand high.

This is what happened to Lakhpat in 1819. The incredibly wealthy town on the border between Sind and Kutch was named such because it was reputed to make a lakh (100,000) kori a day from trade. Yet, almost instantaneously, its fortune reversed and it strangled in the salty desert that suddenly enveloped it.

The strange history of Lakhpat has captured my imagination – and it is a good thing it is so fascinating to me because it will be a central focus at the job for the foreseeable future. My organization is stepping in to compile a history of the town and reinvigorate it by tapping the community Diaspora to invest in the area and historically preserve and reconstruct some buildings to provide for community-driven and sensitive tourism. I will be doing a lot of research on the history, writing a text on religious pluralism there and bringing together scholars in England, India and Pakistan in our research project.

Near where the Indus Valley Civilization was started (one of the oldest ever discovered), Lakhpat also has the political misfortune to be located quite close to the Pakistani border. Yet, because of its situation, it also means that the history is incredibly rich in religious and cultural pluralism.

Exquisite carving on a Muslim building

The two ruling families there worked together and build huge trading empires partially out of the town – trading with Zanzibar, Karachi, Muscat and other key ports on the Indian Ocean, yet one is a prominent Muslim family while the other, Hindu.In 1 km2, there are 42 (!) religious sites representing various forms of Hindu, Muslim and Sikh worship. The Sikh founder, Guru Nanak, stayed here before departing for his visit to Mecca and Medina and many Muslims started their Hajj here centuries ago.

In many ways, the area has captured my imagination because of what today’s Lakhpat stands for in India. 150 or so people live in the town still. From the center of town rise two hideous cell towers, smack dab in the middle of beautiful ruins, and a towering behemoth salt factory, recently abandoned, ominously casts a shadow over the 19th century walls. Army bases pockmark the desert nearby (I had to carry extra ID just in case soldiers noticed the pale guy).

The tombs of prominent Muslims from the town. Lakhpat used to be an important port for Muslim Hajj travelers, those who make the trip to Medina and Mecca each year.

With this kind of development, for big business and for the army, it almost eliminates the possibility for true cultural and historical preservation. Who would go to Machu Picchu if it had satellite dishes on top of it? Yet so much could be done here to tell important stories – stories where Hindus and Muslims lived side by side, where the now rigid border with Pakistan has eliminated the cultural exchange that happened for centuries between Sind and Kutch.

It is an issue we face in the United States as well – through homogenization where the same stores open in Boston, in Chattanooga, in rural Oregon, in Santa Fe. In this process, the reason to visit new places diminishes and the lessons of history, the beauty of varied culture fades. Lakhpat may be too far gone – and too harsh of an area to truly bring back from the edge. But we will certainly work hard to ensure that this isn’t true.

Nutrition for Kids: Morsels from Japan

lin1

Jennifer Lin '09 dines with her students.

This guest post on comparative nutrition practices is from Jennifer Lin ’09, who just spent the past year in Japan as a participant in the prestigious Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) Programme. Previously, Jennifer also lent her talents as communications assistant in the Office of Global Affairs at Brandeis.

Lunchtime! I imagine that most of us spent many lunch hours in school. We hated it and loved it, we bought it and brought it. What’s going on with school lunches these days? Let’s take a look at how America and Japan do things differently.

I think back to my time as a student in suburban New York, from elementary through high school. Free from teachers’ watchful gazes in the cafeteria, we subsisted on greasy rectangles of pizza, rubbery chicken nuggets, and hamburgers. There were pancakes which occasionally doubled as frisbees, dubious chocolate cake that could be used to scrub the floors, enormous quantities of sugary beverages and the ubiquitous ice-cream sandwich.

In middle and high school when we usually brought a few dollars to buy what we wanted every day, I recall my friends and I living on soda, chips, and giant cookies. Commercially produced goods were readily accessible via vending machines. Once in a while I would consume a bag of baked corn chips and feel virtuous for it.

No doubt about it, kids were independent when it came to eating at school. They could pick and choose what they liked. Reduced price meals were often available for those who needed it. Lunches and snacks could be brought from home, catering to the wishes of a picky eater or concerned parent.

But when choosing foods on their own, it was rare that a child would choose the healthy options, or anything they hadn’t been exposed to before. Such items often as not ended up uneaten, or used as weaponry in food fights. Unsupervised, kids ate anything they fancied. Bagged lunches might have been traded for items full of sugar, salt and fat. “Health class” was the only arena for learning about food and nutrition. As I recall, it wasn’t a class that was ever taken very seriously.

Has anything changed in the 10+ years since I was an elementary school student? I wonder what most health classes across the country are teaching now. With dire warnings of childhood obesity and other nutrition-related problems on the rise, educators in America are adjusting their tactics on school lunch and health education. Legislators are taking steps to improve standards through the Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act directing $4.5 billion towards federal children’s nutrition initiatives, as well as establishing voluntary programs like “Let’s Move!” (http://www.letsmove.gov/). It’s good to see awareness growing about good nutrition.

I recently returned to the United States after a year teaching English in Japan, where I ate lunch with my elementary-school level kids every day. We all consumed the same meal in the classroom, where the kids served lunch and cleaned up afterward. The teachers kept a sharp eye on everyone, making sure proper table manners were observed. There was very little wasted. Teachers distributed any extra food to the kids who wanted more. The school nutritionist (assigned by district) often stopped by each classroom to ask us some trivia questions about what we were eating.

Each day’s lunch was carefully planned in advance and prepared by that nutritionist, whom the school informed of any allergies or other issues. Kids knew what they were eating and how it was cooked. They learned about the entire process from growth to consumption, and participated actively through planting, harvesting and cooking their own produce. This meant that lunchtime was still classroom time, and so they were always learning about their food in a constructive way.

Healthy local and seasonal foods were kept on the rotation, with a fair mixture of both traditional and international styles. So children often developed a tolerance for a wide range of ingredients and cooking styles, even for those they initially disliked. They also thoroughly absorbed the Japanese principle of “mottainai” – don’t waste anything! Food fights were not tolerated.

The kids at my Japanese schools didn’t have the freedom to pick; they didn’t get a choice of what they wanted to eat, like I did. It had been decided for them. Parents also have to pay full price for each day’s lunch – this ranges from $1.50 to $2.50 USD. If there’s a reduced-price meal system, I’m unaware of it. But the system seems to work for them. Most older students and adults I encountered seemed to know how to make healthy eating choices. They knew how to respect and appreciate their food.

How did Japan arrive at this functional arrangement for feeding their schoolchildren and creating a nutritionally educated population? Ever since World War II, they’ve gradually phased in new policies and government subsidies encouraging good nutrition. Assigning specialists to each district was an idea proposed in the 1980s which has come to fruition in the past decade or so. It’s been a slow and steady process.

What could America learn from Japan’s example in this case? Are there any changes already in motion? Government at state and federal levels are making efforts to phase out junk food and encourage awareness of good eating habits. Michelle Obama has a notable interest in instilling good fitness routines in the nation’s youngest. Even British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has implemented projects in US schools, attempting to teach students how to eat for health.

The Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act will incorporate many programs similar to those in Japan, like using local produce sources and starting school gardens. The Agriculture Department is also overhauling long-outdated meal standards, limiting calories and saturated fats. It will take time, and it will take money. It’s possible to improve our situation if we persevere, but America clearly has a long way to go.

What do you think about nutritional education in America and Japan? What have your experiences been like? What do you know about the situation in other countries?

Of course, this is just a very limited view of the many realities that exist for children all over the world today. Some of us have the luxury to worry about choosing the correct foods. Untold numbers of people aren’t so lucky. They have to worry about being able to eat at all.

Learn more about school lunch and the educational system in Japan through the MEXT (Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology) website: http://www.mext.go.jp/

The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) runs a website detailing the guidelines for school meals in the US: http://www.fns.usda.gov/cnd/

A link to my old school district’s current lunch menus: http://www.pmschools.org/menus/menus.htm

An interesting series of posts on school lunches around the world, from the blog Serious Eats: http://www.seriouseats.com/tags/school%20lunch%20in

September is Hunger Action Month in the US (http://hungeractionmonth.org/). Millions of children go hungry every day. Recent natural disasters have only made the crisis worse. The programs linked below are a start – what can we do to help?

Share Our Strength – Child Hunger in America: http://strength.org/

The World Food Programme: http://www.wfp.org/

Bread for the World: http://www.bread.org/hunger/global/

Flat New World

bockelmann6a

bockelmannjacobJacob Bockelmann graduated from Brandeis in 2009 with a Bachelor of Arts in Politics and Economics, with a minor in business.  After taking a class on globalization taught by Professor Thomas Friedman, Jacob gained a new perspective on global issues.  Upon his graduation, he decided to spend his first several months out of college traveling and volunteering abroad.  He is currently traveling throughout Southeast Asia with his final destination being New Dehli.  He will be spending over four months volunteering in rural areas, allowing him opportunities to explore, in addition to developing his professional skills in an entirely new context and community.  The following excerpts and photographs are taken from Jacob’s personal blog, Flat New World. He was staying in Vietnam when a typhoon hit the area a few weeks ago.

The worst flooding occurs in Hoi An in late October to November during the tail end of the rainy season. During this time it’s not uncommon for buildings in the lower part of town to get 1-2 meters of water on their first floor. The floods are an almost annual event. I suppose because of the frequency and severity of flooding that people here aren’t too concerned about the storm. However, I asked one shopkeeper what would happen if we had a flood and a storm. She replied, “we’d all be dead.”

From the daily newspaper, Jacob is still about 10km south of Da Nang in Hoi An.

Typhoon Ketsana packed a punch delivering strong winds and massive flooding. Fortunately my immediate area did not experience much damage and things are getting back to normal today. Other areas in Vietnam were hit much harder and just 60 miles south in the mountains of Kon Tum at least 85 people are reported dead. When the storm slowed in the early evening I ventured onto the balcony to survey and the neighborhood and I was surprised to see how much flooding there was just beyond the next street, which again, is supposed to be the high ground.

Old City market flooding on the first day of the storm.

Strong winds and heavy rain required housing and roofs to be secured with sandbags.

Later I went into the old city with a few guys from our hotel and it was like a ghost town.  The streets were empty, there was nothing left of the central market but tattered, flapping blue and orange tarps, and it was really quiet without the car and motorbike horns that define Vietnamese roads.

The flooded market on the day after the storm.

The water flooded the city about 1.5 meters.

Boat traffic in old city market area.

When I checked into my hotel there were about 30 other travelers here, and now there are 3.  It’s a shame I didn’t get to more of Hoi An and what it’s famous for – the old city tours, incredible restaurants, and the beach – but at the same time it has been a really interesting experience to be in this community as it prepared for the storm, suffered through it, and then recovered.

Although he has limited access to the internet, Jacob’s travels and journey throughout Asia will be documented on our blog through his photographs, allowing readers to visually connect withexperiences abroad.  To learn more about Jacob, visit his website at http://www.jacobbockelmann.com.

Brandeis in China

suderow1

This post is from Prof. Detlev Suderow ’70 (International Business School), who just returned from co-leading the 2009 Alumni Travel Program to China.

The Brandeis group is welcomed in Xi'an, China during a Tang Dynasty performance.

The 2009 Brandeis Alumni Association Alumni Travel program trip was a tremendous success with 27 Brandeis community participants, including 16 Brandeis alumni, who sojourned in China from June 10 – 23 led by Odyssey Tours and Brandeis co-leaders Prof. Detlev Suderow ’70 (IBS) and Brandeis University Trustee Paul Zlotoff ’72. The group traveled from Beijing to Xi’an to Chungjing — down the Yangtze River through the Three Gorges to Yicheng, then on to Shanghai. This photo was taken at the Tang Dynasty performance in Xi’an, (the last stop on the ancient Silk Road) and home of the remarkable Terracotta Warriors.

The trip was a success in every possible way — it gave alumni a chance to connect in a fascinating place, it provided a comprehensive introduction to a 5,000 year old culture, and it left participants hungering for more Alumni Trips to exotic locales.

Detlev Suderow
Adjunct Professor and
Executive-in-Residence
Brandeis University
International Business School
Waltham, Massachusetts
suderow@brandeis.edu
Office: 781-862–1913
http://www.brandeis.edu/global/faculty

Mission: Script

chadha1

The Revive Mumbai student group is continuing their teaching work with the children of the Wadala community. They will be working with the students to produce a street play to be performed this coming Monday, June 29th. A week away from the big day, one participant Juhi Chadha ’09, reflects on the last preparations and the challenges of inspiring creativity.

Juhi Chadha ’09 (right) works with the Wadala children during a class.

It finally rained today! Although there were some obvious downsides we were dreading of while planning this summer program, it made me really happy. Just like yesterday, we left early this morning to brief up before going to Wadala at Sriya’s house. Although we had a long conversation last night, there were some things that needed to be finalized for class today — like the actual games, back up plans. Believe it or not it became increasingly important and challenging for every minute to be planned. The biggest challenge (amongst the many that we face on a minute-by-minute basis) was the script for the play. We knew that it was to come from the children, but given the fact that they can’t write and have limitations on what to express, we felt almost stuck.

We had to be innovative with our ways. We decided to work on different aspects of the children’s learning apart from creating a script. We focused on building more confidence of the children, opening up their minds to more creativity, and finally probing them to think of the concept of “change.” We made a quick plan and got on the road. Soon enough however, we stood victims to one major downside of rains in Mumbai — traffic! Read more of this post and other recent posts at http://sangamnagarspeaks.blogspot.com/

Juhi Chadha ’09
juhic87@gmail.com

Protected by Akismet
Blog with WordPress

Welcome Guest | Login (Brandeis Members Only)